![]() Guaranteed tour price, locked in the moment you make your deposit.A tour kit including a guidebook (when available) and a moneybelt.16 nights' accommodations in memorable, centrally located hotels.All group transportation from Varenna to Rome.Full-time services of a professional Rick Steves guide and local experts who will make the fascinating history, art, and culture of Italy come alive for you.A small, friendly group of 24–28 people - half the size of most tour groups.Orvieto orientation and San Brizio Chapel.Orientation for "vacation" day in the Cinque Terre.Florence's Accademia Gallery (Michelangelo's David).South Tirol Museum of Archaeology (Ötzi the Iceman).It would make far more sense to make the Amperage of all devices clearer (peak), and simply put "This cable can carrying X amps at Y temperature, and is unsafe for use at higher temperatures" on extension cables.Here's what you'll see and do on our Best of Italy tour: The little endian nature of the gauge scale (not to mention that it is logarithmic so 19 gauge is 2x the diameter of 20 gauge), and the unclear nature of the warnings on the stuff is kinda useless. IMHO, its a bit pretentious to say that this, stuff is "common sense". It takes a bit to educate yourself on this stuff, but its important knowledge, and a lot of lives could be saved, and fires stopped, if they taught this stuff in highschool. That all being said, it's not common knowledge but it should be. If its a ground fault, and not a fire, and not an electrocution, a GFCI circuit might protect you, but it'll probably be too late for that, as well. The only time the circuit breaker will kick in is after the electrical cord has shorted, and it may be too late by that point. The thing about it that makes it worse is that the circuit breaker will only protect you against over-current based upon the wiring load (assuming the electrician did a good job), not electrical cords, particularly wimpy electric cords. And, with a 100ft run, most people would probably stick it under a rug, which results in even MORE heat buildup. 7-8 is greater than 2, and as such, is a fire hazard. Even your beer-mini-fridge probably draws 7-8 peak. ![]() A pretty average, smallish home fridge has a "max" current draw of 15 amps. You can potentially multiply those numbers by 2-3 for shorter runs.Įven so, 20 gauge wire should really only be used for a 2-6 amp load and on the lower end of that scale for a longer (100 ft+) run. Those are conservative numbers for load carrying capacity, and deemed "safe" for 100ft or longer runs. This would be unsafe for a 4ft core, but a 100ft cord represents a line of death stretching the length of your house. They may spark, which can easily start a fire, the insulation might burn or char, and the exposed wires represent an electrocution hazard. Situation B: Failing outright means that the cord heats up to sufficient temperatures in order melt the insulation off, exposing bare, high-temperature, semi-high voltage wires to the environment. Situation A: A 100ft cord that heats up to unsafe temperatures may start a fire with any number of low-flashpoint items between your garage and basement. ![]() It isn't all that obvious.Ī 20gauge cord is most likely not capable of carrying enough amperage to power your beer fridge without either A)heating up, or B)outright failing. Where it isn't safe is if you run a heater off of an undersized cord, then throw a rug on top of it to further keep ambient losses from cooling the cord, then spill something with a low flashpoint on the rug. assuming you *KNOW* it is getting warm, and you will stop using it shortly. more assuming you can keep the cold flowing in (maybe a continual stream of L/N?)Ĭoming back to reality, it may be safe to run your vacuum cleaner for a few minutes on the cord, even if it gets warm. However, if you put it in liquid nitrogen, you likely will increase that time by several orders of magnitude. you could take a "standard" cord and run 29384092385902380953A through it, but not for more than a millisecond or two whilst the metal melts and subsequently vaporizes in an explosive poof at room temperature. It is this heat that makes things unpleasant. The larger a conductor (think cross-sectional area), the less resistance it has, and the less current will be lost to heat while in use. just like a CPU, it depends what the temperature is. What you likely meant to say is the maximum AMPERAGE (or wattage, which is voltage*amperage) a cable is designed for. ![]() This is based on the voltage the insulation on the wires can withstand in a normal environment. I'll assume you are serious and that isn't trollbait.įirstly, every cord *SHOULD* be labeled with maximium voltage. I would really appreciate it if all my extension cords were clearly labeled for recommended maximum voltage.
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